Spain's Perfect Getaway

Grand Circle traveler Nicole Pensiero's recent trip to Andalusia is described as a "sunny sojourn in Spain" in the October 16 issue of the Courier-Post

Published Date: September, 2007
Courierpostonline.com
Posted with permission of Nicole Pensiero

Andalusia's Costa del Sol has culture, beaches and bargains. What more could you want?

From its tiny white villages to its ancient Muslim sites and the Rock of Gibraltar, the southernmost region of Spain, known as Andalusia, offers bountiful sights and delights.

Factor in good food, lighthearted fun, cultural events and plenty of sunshine, and you'll understand why the beaches along southern Andalusia's Costa del Sol, Sun Coast, are Spain's most popular tourist draw. This distinction seems particularly significant when you consider that Spain is the world's second-most visited country. (France is tops.)

But of the 55-plus million visitors who vacation here annually, less than a million are American, compared with, for example, the 15 million sun-seeking Brits who head there each year.

While Americans may be slow to discover the Iberian Peninsula, boomers who decide to indulge will discover what the rest of world has long known: Spain is one of Europe's most enjoyable -- and cheapest -- vacation spots.

Between the free beaches and relatively inexpensive lodging and meals, it's affordable enough that you'll might stretch a Costa del Sol vacation to 10 days or more.

But aside from its bargain status, this Spanish paradise holds a special allure to boomers traveling with or without kids by affording the perfect mix of a "cultural" vacation with a "beach" one.

With its close proximity to both the Mediterranean Sea and countless Spanish treasures, vacationers in Andalusia can easily divide their time soaking up history and soaking up the sun.

For harried Americans, the leisurely pace of life in Andalusia can take a few days to adapt to. I mean, who eats dinner at 9 p.m.? The Spaniards do -- and even later on the weekends.

Yet the relaxed and relaxing vibe along the Costa del Sol is infectious.

The Spaniards love their afternoon siestas, their early-evening tapas (small plates of tempting foods) and their late night strolls along the beachfront promenade. They seem to work to live, not vice versa -- an unspoken philosophy that overworked vacationers quickly take to heart.

Despite our limited Spanish, my party found the natives friendly and helpful throughout our stay. A simple "Gracias" goes a long way in this part of the world.

Visiting the Costa del Sol during "off" season (October to May) offers some of the region's most temperate weather, and crowds are at a minimum. It's not uncommon to see sunbathers poolside in March; the sea, however, doesn't warm up until May.

Iconic Spain

Andalusia exemplifies iconic Spain -- land of bullfighters and Flamenco dancers -- more than any other region of the country. It's here you'll find the beautiful cities of Seville and Granada, the latter of which houses Spain's top attraction, the 13th-century Alhambra palace.

There are also countless villages, some along the beachfronts and others tucked in the rugged mountain ranges (some snow-capped) that seem to rise up from the Costa del Sol's miles and miles of free beaches.

Having already explored Barcelona and Madrid, the Costa del Sol seemed a natural destination for my third jaunt to Spain. The trip I chose won me over with the promise of letting me "live like a local" in my own oceanfront apartment in the shore resort of Torremolinos, or "T-Town" as the Brits call it.

Torremolinos has gotten a bit of a bum rap in recent years because of its overdevelopment and slightly honky-tonk shopping district. But I was immediately taken with its pristine beaches, bustling downtown area and miles-long oceanfront promenade. And from centrally located Torremolinos, we were able easily to hit all of the nearby hot spots of the Costa del Sol, including a day trip to Gibraltar, home of the famous rock and Europe's only indigenous monkeys, the Barbary Apes. Transportation options are plentiful, and include day-tours by bus and delivered-to-your-door car rentals.

Our two week-long vacation, offered by Boston-based Grand Circle Travel, cost less than $2,000 a person with airfare, a furnished beachfront apartment a full breakfast each day, a "dine-around" dinner program to try several different cafes and a couple of tour excursions.

Grand Circle has such a thriving business at the Bajondillo Apartments in Torremolinos that they have a full-time hospitality desk on site to help clients plan out their unstructured days.

Here are some highlights of our trip:

The Alhambra

A magical combination of space, light, water and decoration characterizes what many consider Spain's most magnificent building. This famed Moorish palace -- where Christopher Columbus approached Isabelle and Ferdinand with his travel plan -- sits sentinel-like over Granada, the last Spanish city to fall to the Christians in 1492.

The Alhambra is known as a great example of Islamic art and architecture, but nothing can prepare a visitor for the beauty and mystique of the magnificent palace, patios and gardens. Tours are daily at 10 a.m. and include transportation from downtown Granada. Tickets are 44.50 euros per person. Children from 6 to 14: 27 euros. General admission is 10 euros for adults. For more information, visit: www.alhambra.org.

Malaga

The Costa del Sol's "big city," Malaga holds the distinction of being Pablo Picasso's hometown (Antonio Banderas', too). Its ultra-modern Picasso Museum, which opened in 2003, is a must-see for any fan of the master -- or even just the curious.

For museum details, visit www.museopicassomalaga.org.

Malaga also boasts an impressive bullring with a museum and a thriving shopping district with mega-sized department stores.

Malaga's Casa Aranada is the place to go to enjoy the popular breakfast meal churros y chocolat.

Nerja

One of the Costa del Sol's best-kept secrets, Nerja boasts not only a stunning view from the man-made "Balcony of Europe" that juts out over the sea but also is the location of breathtaking caves that contain Paleolithic paintings estimated to be 20,000 years old. There's a concert hall in one cave that hosts an international dance and music festival in July. Nerja also charms visitors with street performers and countless waterfront cafes. For more information, visit www.andalucia.com/nerja/ home.htm.

Ronda

One of Spain's most alluring cities, Ronda sits on a massive rocky outcrop, straddling a precipitous limestone gorge. Because of this impregnable position, Ronda was one of the last Moorish bastions and has a truly ancient feel to it. The city's south side hosts a classic Moorish pueblo blanco (white village) of cobbled alleys and dazzling whitewash.

Ronda is also home to one of Spain's oldest bullrings, operational since 1785.

For more information, visit www.turismoderonda.es/ indexeng.htm.

Gibraltar

The Spaniards don't hide the fact that they're a bit peeved that Gibraltar belongs to England. It has since the early 1700s.

Each year, some 4 million people visit "Gib," as the natives call it, enjoying pubs, ale, fish and chips and Bobbies on the beat.

Shopping is big business here, as are tours to the massive rock, which houses The Apes' Den and a concert hall.

The apes are plentiful and adorable, but savvy to tourists: a friend of mine was blindsided when an ape jumped from a tree, knocked her ice cream from her hand and rushed off.

Gibraltar also is renowned for its spectacular views of Northern Africa. For tourist information, go to: www.gibraltar.gi/home/.

Mijas

Easily accessible by bus from downtown Torremolino -- a round-trip ticket is less than $3 U.S. -- Mijas is tucked away in the hills. This charming white village houses Spain's only square bullring, built in 1900.

For more information, visit www.andalucia.com/mijas/ pueblo.htm.

The hardest part of a Costa del Sol vacation is deciding what to do and what to save for next time.

For me, "next time" arrives in May.